The region of Campania in Italy is perhaps most well known for the Costiera Amalfitana [the Amalfi Coast] for its spectacular vistas, for Pompeii and other historical archeological sights, and for the city of Napoli, characterized by it's cultural contradictions. More frequently than not, tourists flock to the Amalfi Coast for its romantic vistas and hotels and renown winding coastal drive in and around the fog-silhouetted hills and terraced crops of lemon trees. It is not often referred to as a family destination. Ironically, however, this area of Italy is truly one whose success has pivoted upon the strength of the families who live there. The willingness of the locals to share that family spirit is what made our trip there with our two young sons, among the more memorable of any of the Italian trips we have taken.
We traveled to the Amalfi Coast at the very cusp of the off-season, late March, and so missed the spring birth of the many incredible flora and vegetation of the region. But we also by-passed the intense crowds and traffic that bloom along with the flowers beginning right after Easter. This fortuitous timing also coincided with the "settimana santa," the holy week preceding Easter. We thus experienced the pageantry of "giovedi santo" [Holy Thursday], including "Lavanda dei piedi" ‘[the washing of feet] symbolic of the day and the "Prossessione del SS.Sacramento alla Cappella della reposizione per l'adorazione." The latter is a stunning and haunting procession intended to remember the betrayal of Christ. On that night, we followed the townspeople as they walked for hours up and over the hills of Ravello behind men dressed in white robes and hoods singing the dissident lamentations that mark the sadness of Christ's tortuous journey.